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Water damageAvg $3,868MoldAvg $2,368BiohazardAvg $4,000RoofingReplacement avg $9,608Garage doorsRepair avg $265Plumbing$100 to $500 per hourHVACRepair avg $350Commercial HVACInstalled $7.5k to $35k
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Emergency plumbing

Every hour you wait, this stops being a plumbing bill.

Water that sits for two days becomes a restoration job that averages $3,868. Here is what an emergency plumber should charge, what the after hours premium really is, and a free call to a licensed local plumber.

BestHonestPro is a free comparison resource, not a contractor. There is nothing to sign up for and we do not sell your details. When we begin connecting callers to contractors, we will be paid a referral fee by the contractor, never by you, and this line will say so.

Published cost ranges

What an emergency plumber should cost

These are national published ranges, not a quote for your job. Use them to judge whether the number in front of you is in the right ballpark.

Emergency rates run $100 to $500 an hour, averaging $170. Standard daytime rates are $40 to $200 an hour.

Emergency call out fee$150 to $300
Evening premium$60 to $300
Weekend premium$80 to $400
Holiday premium$120 to $600
After hours multiplier1.5x to 3x standard

Source: Angi, emergency plumber cost, 2026. View source

What moves the price

  • When you call. Holidays run about three times normal, weekends about double.
  • What broke. A clog, a burst pipe and a main line are three different jobs.
  • What the water reached. Drywall, flooring and drying are billed separately.

Or have us do the legwork

Back to you within one business day

Tell us the job. We will do the checking and send you the shortlist.

Free, and there is nothing to buy. A few taps, and you get the same research we would do for ourselves, written down.

Step 1 of 5
What needs doing?

Pick the closest one. You can explain the detail in a moment.

How soon do you need somebody?

This decides who we look for, not what we charge you. Nothing here costs money.

Where are you?

Your ZIP code is how we search the right state licence board.

What is actually happening?

A couple of sentences is plenty. What you can see, how long it has been going on, and anything a contractor has already told you.

Where should we send it?

Last screen. We write the shortlist by hand and email it to you.

No spam and no list. One email with your shortlist, and a reply if you write back.

Got it. The clock has started.

We will come back to you within one business day at the email you gave. If it is not there, check the spam folder before assuming we forgot.

While you wait, four minutes well spent

Read the questions to ask What we can and cannot promise

What comes back to you

  • Up to three names we would call ourselves

    Licensed for your state and trade, checked on the state board the day we send it, with the licence number so you can check it too.

  • What we verified on each one

    Licence status and classification, how long the business has been registered, and whether anything shows on the state board or attorney general. If something looks wrong, we say so.

  • What your job should cost where you live

    The published national range narrowed with what we can find for your area, so the first quote has something to sit against.

  • The questions to ask them, for your job

    The same seven on this site plus the ones specific to your trade, in the order to ask them.

What this is not. We are not inspecting your property and we are not standing behind anyone's work. This is desk research done properly and handed to you, nothing more and nothing less.

Step one

Where to get your three names

Telling you to compare three contractors is useless if you only have one. These are the five places the three names actually come from, in the order we would use them. None of them involve us.

Your state licensing board

Every US state runs a free public search of licensed contractors, and most let you filter by trade and county. Starting here means all three of your names are licensed before you dial, which removes the single most common problem in one step.

The supply house

Call the plumbing, roofing or HVAC supply counter nearest you and ask who they would use. They know exactly who pays their bills on time and who does not, they have no stake in your job, and almost nobody thinks to ask them.

Maps, filtered properly

Search the trade plus your town, then keep only businesses with a real street address, a landline, and photographs of actual work. Skip anything with a stock photo and a mobile number only, which is what a lead broker looks like.

Your insurer, if a claim is involved

Most carriers keep a preferred contractor list. Use it as one of your three, not as the only one: the list is chosen partly for the carrier's convenience, and your interests and theirs are not identical.

The neighbour with the same problem

The most reliable source there is, and the least scalable. If someone on your street had this exact job done in the last two years, that is your best single name.

Your three calls

Call three. Ask all of them the same seven questions.

You cannot tell an honest contractor from a dishonest one by looking, and neither can we. What you can do is ask every one of them the same things in the same order, and watch where the answers stop matching. That is a comparison you can run yourself in twenty minutes, and it is worth more than anybody's badge.

Are you licensed for this work in my state, and what is your licence number?

What a real one saysA number, said without hesitation, that you can look up on the state board while you are still on the phone.
The tell“We are fully licensed and insured” with no number offered. That sentence is not a licence.

Can you email me a certificate of insurance for general liability and workers compensation?

What a real one saysYes, and it arrives from the insurance agent, not as a photo of a piece of paper.
The tell“We will bring it with us.” If a worker is hurt on your property uninsured, the exposure can land on you.

Who actually does the work, your own employees or subcontractors, and are they covered by your policy?

What a real one saysA straight answer either way. Subcontractors are normal; being covered is the point.
The tellIrritation at the question. This is the one nobody asks and the one that decides who pays when something goes wrong.

Will you put the scope in writing before any money changes hands, including what is NOT included?

What a real one saysAn itemised scope with exclusions named. Exclusions are where the second invoice comes from.
The tellOne number and a handshake, or pressure to start today.

What is your call-out or diagnostic fee, and does it come off the job if I go ahead?

What a real one saysA specific figure and a clear yes or no.
The tell“Free” with no written scope. Somebody is paying for that visit, and it is you, inside the price.

What is your workmanship warranty in years, and is that yours or the manufacturer’s?

What a real one saysTwo separate answers. They are two different promises from two different companies.
The tellA long number quoted as one thing. A contractor warranty is typically one to five years unless a manufacturer programme stands behind it.

When can you start, and what is the most likely thing that would delay it?

What a real one saysA date and an honest risk, such as a permit or a part.
The tell“We can be there in an hour” on a job that needs a permit.

Then the ones that only matter for this job

Is this the emergency rate, and what would the same job cost during business hours?

What a real one saysBoth numbers. Emergency runs 1.5x to 3x standard and a good plumber will say so.
The tellOne rate with no explanation of why it is that rate.

Who pulls the permit if this needs one?

What a real one saysThey do.
The tellThey ask you to. The FTC lists that as a sign of a home improvement scam.

Ask all three the same questions in the same order. The spread in the answers tells you more than the spread in the prices. Two quotes cannot tell you who is wrong. Three can.

The comparison sheet

Screenshot this, or copy it onto paper before you dial. Fill one column per contractor while you are still on the call, never afterwards from memory.

Swipe the table sideways to reach columns two and three.

 Pro 1Pro 2Pro 3
Licence number (and did it check out)
Certificate of insurance received
Own crew or subcontractors
Written scope, with exclusions
Call-out fee, credited or not
Workmanship warranty, in years
Earliest start date
Total price

Before you say yes

Five things to check yourself

You can verify all five without a single phone call to us. That is the point. An honest contractor will hand you every one of these without being asked twice.

  • State or county plumbing licence, verified with the agency

    NASCLA keeps a directory of state contractor licensing agencies at nascla.org/search. The FTC's line is to consider only contractors who are licensed and insured.

  • Certificates of general liability and workers compensation

    Ask for the certificate itself, not a verbal claim.

  • A written itemised estimate before work begins

    Scope, materials, timeline and price. The FTC recommends written estimates from more than one contractor.

  • That the contractor pulls the permit, not you

    The FTC lists asking the customer to obtain required building permits as a sign of a scam.

  • A contract with your right to cancel in it

    The FTC's Cooling Off Rule means the contract should carry a written statement of your right to cancel within three business days, alongside contact details, licence number and dates.

Warning signs

Three things that should end the conversation

Each of these is documented by a regulator, a state agency or a consumer protection body, not by us.

Turning up uninvited

The FTC's marker: someone who says they are in the area, or that they have materials left over from another job.

Pressure for an immediate decision

A real emergency plumber will still give you a written price before starting.

Full payment up front, or cash only

The FTC is explicit. Do not pay the full amount for the project up front.

Why waiting costs more

The EPA's guidance is to dry water damaged areas within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth. Past that window the job changes category: water damage restoration averages $3,868 and runs to $16,000, with mold removal a further $1,200 to $3,800 on top.

Source: US EPA and Angi 2026. View source

How this works

Free for homeowners. No sign-up, nothing to buy.

Know the number first

Every page publishes the national cost range for that job with its source named and linked, so the quote in front of you has something to sit against.

Call three, ask the same seven things

The questions are written out, in order, with what a real operator says and what the tell sounds like. Fill the comparison sheet while you are on the call.

Verify it yourself, in five minutes

Licence number on the state board, certificate of insurance from the insurer, written scope with the exclusions named. Nobody has to take our word for anything.

Three names, seven questions, five minutes of checking

That is the whole method, and you can run it this afternoon without us.

BestHonestPro is a free comparison resource, not a contractor. There is nothing to sign up for and we do not sell your details. When we begin connecting callers to contractors, we will be paid a referral fee by the contractor, never by you, and this line will say so.

Get a free shortlist